Tuesday, 23 June 2015

June 23 Uglich

We stayed up after I did the blog last night for the novelty of having an actual sunset and some comparative darkness.  Of course this didn’t happen till getting on to 11pm but we still enjoyed it.
The doctors cough lozenges had worked and so I managed to sleep quite well without people in other cabins wondering why there was a dog on board.
So it was an early morning arrival into Uglich, with brekkie done and us ready on the pier at 8am.  Off we set for a walking tour of this little town.
This town has been settled for longer than the town we were in yesterday, so well over 1,000 years.  The name Uglich means ‘bend’ or ‘elbow’ in Russian and it sits in the bend of the Volga River.
The town became well known for an incident that happened there in the 16th century.  Ivan the Terrible only had two surviving sons – one who was said to be a half-wit the other only (Dmitry) a very young child.  Dmitry was exiled to Uglich and some years later when he was 7 he was murdered.  The most likely instigator was Boris Gunudov who had organised his sister to marry Ivan’s eldest son.  This meant the only thing that stood between him and the top job was Dmitry.  The boy was found dead.  The whole incident was covered over by the witnesses being tortured, the whole town punished, and the church bell which had rung out that something terrible had happened was exiled to Siberia.  So Gunudov did come to power but was very unpopular.  He was very friendly and had many dealings with Poland.  Eventually Gunudov was killed burnt to ashes and the ashes loaded into a cannon and the cannon fired in the direction of Poland.  The guide who told the story said she had been asked if that was the first Russian Canonisation.  Anyway the church we visited was on the place where the boy was said to be murdered.  It seems in early Russian times if you wanted a new church built just get a VIP murdered there and the church will soon follow – it may also account for why there are so many churches in Russia.
We were shown the town centre and we were off on our free time.  We were looking for a shop where I could by some ‘Throaties’ or such like.  Fortunately we came across one of the guides from the boat and she walked us there.  We never would have found it.  Definitely off the tourist track.  The staff on board are wonderful – they are so very willing to meet any need.
We then walked back in the direction of the boat.  There was another lacquer box display in a quaint building.  We went in and there I found a box like the one I fell in love with yesterday.  It is of course a little different but by the same artist and beautiful.  Den insisted that I should buy it, so who am I to argue.  So I am a very happy girl.  
Back on board we had some time for a coffee and a sit on the sun deck as it is another warm day.  At noon the boat headed off again our next stop will be Moscow.
After lunch was just free time – sleep time, sitting on the balcony reading, just watching the Volga glide by.  There are many people camping in tents by the river.  The weather is perfect for them and for us.
Tonight was “the Captain’s Farewell Reception”.  We still have a few more days left but from tomorrow when we arrive in Moscow we won’t be moving around anymore.  It was a special dinner followed by a concert.  Some of the passengers had made a choir and sang a Russian folk song, and others were volunteered ‘Russian style’ into taking part in a play – both were great fun.  I was thrilled and stunned when they announced the winner of the painted matryoschka doll was mine.  The judging had been done by popular vote – Arty said it was amazing 84 people eligible to vote and they counted 126 – he said it reminded him of one of the leaders who said ‘it doesn’t matter how you vote it matters how we count’.  Anyway I was presented with a lovely book of Pushkin’s Fairy tales.  It was then time for some dancing and then up to the roof deck to watch the sunset.  Tomorrow Moscow.


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